*What you absolutely need to know: Pick two parents, you pay what YOU can afford. List below.

Araloosa

The Araloosa is a cross between the Appaloosa and the Arabian horse. This breed was established and developed to be a preservation aspect of the original horse that the Nez Perce people of the American Northwest first bred. Developed from two Endurance-styled breeds, the cross between the two was meant to show both the beauty as well as exemplify the long-winded-ness of both of these breeds. Today, this breed is known by a few different names, although, in my opinion, none roll off the tongue quite as well as the one chosen by this club, the Araloosa

Like in real life, we create this breed in the game, using the same two parent breeds, the Arabian and the Appaloosa. Between these two breeds, agility and speed are both shared, meaning that the most likely disciplines at once are Barrels, Cutting, Pole Bending, Show Jumping, and Hurdle Racing.

As a run of chance, the very first horse I owned happened to have stats pulling best for Pole Bending, so that's what I developed this breed for. So my Araloosas are bred to excel in Poles, however, other closely stat'ed disciplines are Barrels and to a lesser extent Hunter, Show Jumping, Hunter Under Saddle, Hurdle Racing and Vaulting. So although my stock may be easy to retrain into any desired discipline, these choices may prove even less difficult, if choosing a different discipline than Poles.

Iberian Warmbloods

Iberian Warmbloods come from the Iberian Peninsula in southwestern Europe and were designed to be a larger animal for eventing and sporting then their eastern relatives the Lusitano and Andalusion.

It is considered one of the oldest warmbloods that exist, although perhaps this can be debated. Differently designed for showing, the Iberian Warmblood excelled more for show jumping and cross country instead of favoring the all-consuming dressage that their smaller warmblood cousins constantly excelled within. 

In game, we make this crossbreed by using a Thoroughbred and an Andalusion. My line of Iberian Warmbloods goes all the way back to my first horse ever acquired in this game (aside from the starter horses) and like that first horse, still carries the discipline he was best suited for when I purchased him.

Unlike real life, I've created this breed to excel in Cutting. Other disciplines closely stat'ed don't exist, however to a lesser extent, Barrels, Poles, Pulling, Reining, Show Jumping, Trail, Hunter Under Saddle and Hurdle Racing share similar stats.

What I Offer.

Access to good, solid stock that produces good, solid stock to help you earn the important survivability bits that your account needs to survive. Priced at a point that you can afford and not what I deem them worth.

What you should consider before requesting.

You'll need at least half as many show string animals as the amount of total animals on your account that's NOT earning bits. What this means is if you have 20 non-show string animals, you'll want at least 10 show string animals.

You should also be watching your show string to ensure that they're still earning you bits. What this means is that some days (usually just after leveling up into a new category, i.e. moving from local to regional) your show string horse may not be earning bits and you'll need to move it into halter shows for a certain and short amount of time (think, until you can train them again).

Even though I have these horses already trained up in certain disciplines, I will recommend that you choose a new path that suits your preferences and play-style better. After all, if you keep the same discipline as the one I have all of my horses in, this means that your horses will most likely be competing against my own. There are still plenty of open disciplines with empty higher tiers available. By choosing a different discipline, you run better luck of not competing against anybody.

Lastly, if you're able to raise up your own newly bred show string foals, you can save the most bits using my program, but you should also remember that you Will Need To finish foal training to maximize your new foal's ability to earn bits for your account.

You are not required to accept the foal that's born from your cross. Should you decide to reject the foal, please keep in mind that the foal can be put up for sale, put up for auction or even rehomed. Once you reject the foal, the foal no longer belongs to you but again belongs to me and what I do with said foal is no longer of your concern. However, most of these foals do find good use with somebody.

How this works.

I will have a list following of Araloosa and Iberian Warmblood horses that are currently working for me, showing and earning important levels to become top-notch show stock. Choose your breed (either Araloosa, Iberian Warmblood, or a cross between the two), choose your mare and your stallion (however many you think you want) and then contact me here or through mail. I will set up a breeding and sell to you [at your price point] the requested foals.

You may return as often as you need and you may request as many foals as you think you can afford and that your account needs to succeed.

Prices are what YOU can afford, not what I think the foal is worth. This is a program designed to put you in a better financial position so you can succeed in the game. I expect you to pay something, however, what that something is, can start at free and increase all the way to what I think the foal is worth. This does mean I'm opening myself up to be taken advantage of. I accept this risk and because this program does help many more than what advantage I get taken of, I still feel it worthwhile.

Please keep in mind, some horses will be restricted at certain times (when I pull them from active showing and am breeding for the next generation) and thereafter, when they go up for public standing, you will be expected to cover the standing fee alongside the regular fee you think you can afford for purchase of the foal. It behooves you to take advantage of my offer before they go up for public standing.

There is one additional notation to keep in mind. You are not restricted to my stock. If you want to breed a certain horse to one of mine, as long as they're still in active showing status, you can also include a crossover from my stock to another horse outside of my stock (either your own or one standing in the market) for the same price (i.e. what you can afford). However, you will still be expected to pay the standing fee for a horse that's on the market.

What about if I feel I can cover their actual worth?

This is a loaded question. The prices I apply to my stock are already exceptional, for the work I've already applied to them. As I improve my stock, the price will increase. I don't expect people to pay these amounts outright, however, should you want to and feel that you should try, the following list is what I would expect to put them up for, for standing. These added together, approximately assumes what I think a foal of such pairing should be worth. I will periodically update these prices, but don't consider these are the end-all rules. Depending on the day, the story and the parents, I'm often fluctuating on the overall final price point.

*Note, my stock when placed up to stand, either fall under level 90 or are over level 100

*Note, price for foal does NOT take into account the star value of the foal.

One Star and under level 90: At or under 25k bits OR 30 to 50 ingots

One Star and over level 100: Approximately 25k bits OR 50 to 65 ingots

Two Star and under level 90: At or under 30k bits OR 60 to 70 ingots

Two Star and over level 100: Approximately 30k bits OR 70 to 85 ingots

Three Star and under level 90: Starting at 30k bits but not over 45k OR 70 ingots but not over 95 ingots

Three Star and over level 100: Starting at 35k bits but not over 55k OR 70 ingots but not over 100 ingots

Four Star and under level 90: Starting at 40k bits OR 80 ingots

Four Star and over level 100: Starting at 45k bits OR 90 ingots

Five Star and under level 90: Starting at 45k bits OR 90 ingots

Five Star and over level 100: Starting at 50k bits OR 100 ingots

List updated 9/4/2026.

*Horses currently listed as 'not available' are not available for the program.

*Horses listed with a fee, are standing at public and you will be expected to cover the fee as well.

*Color for gray is assumed closest guess if not capitalized.

*You are assumed to double check your parent horses for accuracy, still in active status or currently in public standing.

Araloosas

Stallions

𓆩♡𓆪 Raven - 16y, 4 Star, Smoky Black, Tier 2, 3697 PS, Level 91

Perfect Shadow - 16y, 3 Star, Sooty Pearl Leopard, Tier 2, 5333 PS, Level 105

Delirious Overlord - 16y, 1 Star, White, Tier 2, 6184 PS, Level 116

Dawngaze Infiltrator - 16y, 2 Star, White, Tier 2, 6091 PS, Level 117

Crying Brazen - 14y, 2 Star, Liver Chestnut Sabino, Tier 2, 3903 PS, Level 90

𓆩♡𓆪 Dumbledore - 14y, 4 Star, Black, Tier 2, 4090 PS, Level 97

Wraith Spray - 13y, 1 Star, Sooty Amber Dun Varnish Blanket, Tier 2, 5076 PS, Level 101

Illusionary Throne - 12y, 2 Star, Sooty Buckskin Roan Varnish Roan, Tier 2, 4034 PS, Level 85

Hellfire Prophet - 11y, 3 Star, Smoky Black Roan Splash Varnish Roan, Tier 2, 3068 PS, Level 82

Ending Dream - 9y, 2 Star, Blue Roan Splash Blanket Rabicano, Tier 2, 4002 PS, Level 85

Amberscar - 9y, 3 Star, Bay Splash Varnish Roan, Tier 2, 3103 PS, Level 78

Pursuit - 7y, 2 Star, Sooty Classic Cream Roan, Tier 2, 4203 PS, Level 82

Talonfoot - 1y, 4 Star, Sooty Strawberry Roan Splash White Rabicano, Tier 1, 2047 PS, Level 33

Hunting Beast - 1y, 2 Star, Sooty Pearl Sabino Snowcap, Tier 2, 3248 PS, Level 28

Mares

Hunting The Ashes - 21y, 3 Star, Golden Champagne Splash Varnish Roan, Tier 2, 3928 PS, Level 90 At Brood: 35k

Reckless Darkened Deity - 21y, 3 Star, Flaxen Pearl Roan Splash White, Tier 2, 4195 PS, Level 93 At Brood: 40k

When Mortals Fade - 19y, 3 Star, Steel Grey Varnish (silver grulla varnish), Tier 2, 3579 PS, Level 97 At Brood: 20k

Frozen Heartstone - 19y, 3 Star, Sooty Silver Red Roan Fewspot, Tier 2, 5855 PS, Level 114  At Brood: 30k

Infernal Guard - 19y, 3 Star, Sooty Red Chestnut Splash Varnish Roan, Tier 2, 5726 PS, Level 97 At Brood: 35k

Corrupted Diviner - 17y, 1 Star, Sooty Steel Grey Leopard (sooty blue roan varnish), Tier 2, 6097 PS, Level 96

Ancient Wraith - 17y, 1 Star, Sooty Silver Red Roan Blanket, Tier 2, 5174 PS, Level 105

Ending Bloodlust - 14y, 1 Star, Sooty Light Buckskin Roan, Tier 2, 5383 PS, Level 102

Demon Warfist - 14y, 1 Star, Sooty Bay Sabino, Tier 2, 6058 PS, Level 111

Deep Burstfall - 14y, 1 Star, Silver Brown Buckskin Splash Varnish Roan, Tier 2, 5024 PS, Level 98

Angel's Toxin - 13y, 2 Star, Light Buckskin, Tier2, 4884 PS, Level 105

Cursed Unholy - 12y, 2 Star, Silver Black Sabino Splash Fewspot, Tier 2, 5391 PS, Level 87

✦✧✦✧ Forever Night - 11y, 3 Star, Smoky Black Roan Blanket, Tier 1, 1562 PS, Level 69

Grim Oblivion - 11y, 2 Star, White, Tier 2, 3509 PS, Level 80

Void Flare - 11y, 3 Star, Amber Champagne, Tier 2, 3216 PS, Level 83

They Call Me Abnormality - 8y, 3 Star, Sooty Silver Bay Varnish Blanket, Tier 2, 4503 PS, Level 80

Superior Mutt - 8y, 3 Star, Sooty Amber Champagne Sabino Leopard, Tier 2, 4569 PS, Level 82

Savage Throne - 4y, 3 Star, Sooty Pearl, Tier 2, 3504 PS, Level 60

Whirlwind - 4y, 3 Star, Flaxen Strawberry Roan Splash Fewspot Rabicano, Tier 2, 3099 PS, Level 60

Redstroke Phoenix - 1y, 2 Star, Sooty Smoky Black Sabino Varnish Blanket, Tier 2, 3022 PS, Level 31

Iberian Warmbloods

Stallions

Scarlet Deer - 18y, 4 Star, Rose Grey Rabicano (wild bay dun rabicano), Tier 2, 5944 PS, Level 119 At Stud: 40k

Haunted Noble - 20y, 5 Star, Grullo, Tier 2, 5400 PS, Level 106 At Stud: 100 Ingots

Scarlet Warden - 15y, 2 Star, White, Tier 2, 5562 PS, Level 101 At Stud: 35k

Mares

Nightmare Grind - 20y, 4 Star, Rose Grey (bay dun roan), Tier 2, 5591 PS, Level 104 At Brood: 90 Ingots

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